The day got off to a bumpy start – literally and figuratively. For one, the breakfast was bit of a nonevent. The proprietor handed me a coffee and a couple of slices of dried French toast, and never returned. I waited for the main meal to arrive, but soon realised this is breakfast, Spanish style. Hola!
As I cycled out of the village, my backwheel felt bumpy. Yesterday, being the whole day on gravel, I didn’t notice anything, but now it was really irritating. I cycled on to a petrol station and had a look. As I couldn’t see anything obvious wrong, I decided to deflate the tyre and take the whole tube out. Turned out that my plastic liner – which I use as a thorn deterrent – folded in one place. Gotcha! With that sorted, I was back on the bike and off again. 
This part of the Camino, in the foothills of the Pyrenees, is very lush and green. You often ride through a tunnel of green trees that hugs you with their shade. Very nice. At Erro I turned left onto a sideroad, the N2330. This would take me on a big loop past Pamplona, through the village of Urroz and on to Puente la Reina. When I did my route planning at home, I saw one guy suggested this option (it’s also, like the traditional Pamplona route, part of the Camino Santiago) as it sidestepped a fairly big climb just ahead of Pamplona. Although the ride was flat, fast and fairly scenic as you chug along the Erro river in a virtual canyon with cliffs towering both sides above you, I think the hill would be a nice challenge, and Pamplona a cool landmark to tick off on your list of cities visited.
At Urroz I stopped for some tea (the sun was belting down, and the stop this morning made me get behind schedule – it was nearly lunch time by now), and then it was on to the N234 to Eunate. This was the end of the green scenery. Now the road went straight along a dry, yellow plain with no shade to be seen.
At Campanas you turn left onto the N121 for a short stretch before you swing right onto the N601 to Eunate. At Campanas though I stopped for some sandw
iches at a petrol station and fell down on the lawn of a bank that was closed out for siesta. Shortly after I left Campanas, some 11 km’s, I turned off to make a detour to the beautiful church of Santa Maria de Eunate, a church thought to be built by the Knights Templar in the 11th century. The smallish building is in the shape of an octagon whilst the windows are thin slabs of marble to let the light through. I was glad I made the detour.
iches at a petrol station and fell down on the lawn of a bank that was closed out for siesta. Shortly after I left Campanas, some 11 km’s, I turned off to make a detour to the beautiful church of Santa Maria de Eunate, a church thought to be built by the Knights Templar in the 11th century. The smallish building is in the shape of an octagon whilst the windows are thin slabs of marble to let the light through. I was glad I made the detour. Then it was just a short ride to Puente la Reina. I went straight to the first refugio (Padres Reparadores), just on the left hand side as you enter the town, and immediately got a place to stay. I was a bit surprised, for usually this early in the day (it was just after three) they reserve all the beds for walking pilgrims. If there is still any place left after six, the bikers can get those.
But the padres were friendly, and I quickly went for a shower and a rest in the shaded backyard.
But the padres were friendly, and I quickly went for a shower and a rest in the shaded backyard.
Then it was off to town to have a proper look at Puente la Reina. The
village is virtually a frontier town, but steeped in history. For centuries it’s been a major thorough port for pilgrims, and it’s also the place where two big pilgrim routes, from the southeast of France and the northwest, converge. The actual convergence point is the beautiful old bridge – dating back to the 11th century – just outside of town. But that I would cross tomorrow.
village is virtually a frontier town, but steeped in history. For centuries it’s been a major thorough port for pilgrims, and it’s also the place where two big pilgrim routes, from the southeast of France and the northwest, converge. The actual convergence point is the beautiful old bridge – dating back to the 11th century – just outside of town. But that I would cross tomorrow. For now, it was time to enjoy my Grimbergen beer in the cool evening breeze.
Time on bike: 3:55
Average speed: 19,2 km/h
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