And so it started, my final day of my Camino all the way from St Jean to Santiago. It felt a bit unreal, as I pushed my bike out into the road. Guess it must be that one is not in a dormitory in a refugio this morning, where you awake to people all around you going through their routine of packing bags, strapping laces, filling bottles and putting suncream on. All in hushed silence, getting ready for the new tough day in the sun. But I was excited none the less, this was something that I’ve worked hard for and planned for quite some time earlier in the year. I really looked forward to seeing Santiago.
As I cycled out of Arzua, I immediately felt glad that I didn’t try to complete the whole section in one go yesterday. The route was tough again, lots of steep hills that grabbed the bike onto the road. My gears again gave some problems, and initially I tried to fix it, but it just didn’t want to work properly anymore. At the hilltop of Moto Gozo (the first place on the entire route where the pilgrims could see the cathedral in Santiago) I turned off the highway and followed the tarred walking route to the city. You’re now in the outskirts of Santiago, and the road goes up and down between small farm settlements and the odd family house as well.
And then you enter the city proper. The route follows a big boulevard that meanders downwards into the historic centre of town, where the cathedral is, the finishing point of the Camino. When the route split from the boulevard and snakes through the narrow streets of the old town, you can either follow the yellow arrows to lead you to the cathedral, or you can follow all the bobbing rucksacks of the pilgrims.
A corner left and right, and then suddenly you enter the massive – and equally impressive – square that stretches out in front of the big cathedral. This is the end of the journey, and the relief and joy that spills over you is unbelievable. It’s a big open square, with no cars in sight. I cycle slowly to a spot in the middle and put my bike down to start taking pictures. But then a noise behind me caught my ears. As I look around, Walther is standing there, in his red shirt, grey socks and sandals. He’s preparing to play his alp-horn, just as he said earlier he will do when he arrives here.
It’s unbelievable. After all this we’ve arrived at the same day and time in the square in Santiago. I walk over to him, where a crowd has quickly gathered, and we greet each other with laughs and pats on the back. The sound of his alp-horn brings tears to the eyes.
Then I start searching for the office where you get your credencial finally checked and to receive your compostela, the document that proves that you’ve completed the Camino, and then it’s off to find my pre-booked hostel. That evening I walked around the old town, soaking up the atmosphere. The streets are filled with tourists milling around, and everywhere there’s a souvenir shop with the same trinkets and Camino gadgets. I buy myself a two presents, and go for a beer.
It was an amazing trip, and I’m elated that I’ve tried and completed it. I was tired, but reflecting back over the past two weeks whilst drinking a beer, I really felt happy that I’ve done this. For everyone it’ll be a unique experience, and so it was for me as well. But more than I thought, it wasn’t just the physical part that stood out, also the spiritual and mental experience that went with it filled me with joy. It was an experience I will encourage everyone to do, and next time I will come and hike it from start to finish.
Time on bike: 2:22
Average speed: 17,1 km/h
No comments:
Post a Comment